HOLIDAY MAKEUP (Smokey Eye)

It is that time of year again.  I had my first day of being slammed with holiday party makeup.  I LOVE IT! Here are some helpful hints:

Remember to think about the lighting you will be in…Is it a dark, candlelit, bright etc?

If it is dark you are going to need a LOT of makeup..just remember that you have it on so you dont make plans to stop off at the grocery store

What color dress are you wearing?

If it is black I am a fan of the smokey look which basically consists of a fade technique of darker shadow on the lid to a lighter effect under the brow.  My favorite way to do it is to:

1.  Start with foundation on the lid. This will keep it moist and allow you to blend easily
2. blend a black and brown pencil on the lashline and use a brush to blend it out until the lines disappear. 
3. Apply a color like moondust on the lid (on top of the faded pencil) (make sure you use a brush like the chisel deluxe fluff…if you dont it will end up a mess)and fade it out just above the crease.  Keep your eyes open and smile when you are blending the crease. (you must have a natural expression on your face otherwise you will risk looking superimposed)
4. Apply a pressed powder that is your skintone or lighter from the brow down to the crease.  Blend until your skin is covered and the edge of the moondust is softened (no harsh lines! you can always add more later if it needs intensity) (Keep smiling)
5. Add a light shimmer under the brow on top of the powder. I like using a shimmer powder becasue it looks more sheer and lays easily on top of the powder. It wont look like a disco shimmer and it it amazing in dark light!  You look like you are glowing.  I personally like using glitzy which is a white shimmer powder.
6. BLEND BLEND BLEND.  Most women think they are done. Maybe, maybe not. Take a close look. Look in the dimly lit light, look in the natural light. Smile. Do you see any hard edges? Is your lid saturated with color?  Sometimes if you have dry skinned lids you might ned to apply the moondust, powder and glitzy 2 or 3 times to look smooth. Think paint here. It doesn’t take one coat to cover the wall when you are painting it! Just make sure it looks seamless.
7. I like to use a little of the moondust under the eyes and a black pencil either inside (yes!) or a black shadow mixed with moondust using a mini detail chisel brush.  This is lighter then just a dark line under the eye. Using pencil inside the eye adds drama..just check yourself before you walk in the party to make sure your eyes didnt wash it out.  It is easy to reapply so just carry the pencil with you.
8. Lastly, line your eyes with black shadow mixed with eyeliner sealer.  Eyeliner Sealer is the BEST product for lining with.  It will intensify the pigment and make it last. IT IS EASY EASY EASY and best if you have “mature”eyes.  Take a drop of the sealer, put it on your hand, dip a taklon definer brush (VERY thin and stiff brush) in the sealer then into the color. Mix like a water color and practice drawing a line on your hand before applying to your eye. The texture should be saturated and consistent otherewise it wont be as easy.  If you feel confident draw one straight line or small strokes will work if you need to do that. What’s great about this is if you wait 30 seconds, run a dry brush over it and it will smooth out the line and soften it and then it is set! It wont rub off, it doesn’t look like a regular liquid eyeliner (like a felt tip pen) and it is as tiny of a line as you want it becasue you have used a tiny brush!!! (remember the size of the brush should =size of the space you are working with) Voila!  The great part is use can use this technique with any eyeshadow.
9. BLUSH Choose a blush that is strong enough to show up with the dark eyes but not one that is going to make you look like Ronald McDonald.  My favorite technique is to use your everyday color on the entire cheekbone and then a brighter color (usually one of those Mary Kay obnoxious colors will work just fine…look in the box that you refuse to throw way) on the apple of the cheek.  That way you will avoid the racing stripe effect LOL.  Make sure you can see it in the light…otherwise you can look washed out when you wear a darker eye.  TRICK HERE IS BALANCE
10. LIPS You have a few choices.  If you have a rock star, beauty queen or glamour goddess alter ego I would go with some kind of a red. It does not need to be obnoxious but it does say I am confident and I rock! If you want to be a bit sultry and seductive then use a softer color.  I am a fan of using a peachy, gold color with a smokey eye because I can still have some warmth and it makes the eyes look more smoldering. Angel is my favorite (in the picture at the top), seduction is pale and a good color to put on top of anything. As for reds, crimson with terracotta pencil is not a ranting red. If you want that go with scarlet or racy red. And if you want a pinkier red and glossy VOLUPTUOUS gloss is for you.  The name says it all. Tips for toning down a red…Use a softer natural bronzey gloss such as speechless or divine shine and a browner lip pencil. Make sure you blot( biting a tissue) after applying the red.

GENERAL TIPS

EXFOLIATE AND HYDRATE  Before doing any of this make sure YOUR SKIN IS SMOOTH Use a facial scrub (ultimate facial scrub), a clay mask and then a moisture mask (vitamin enrched hydrating mask IS MY FAV) Your makeup will look better and you will have a healthy glow because you are not because you are faking it.

Do your eyemakeup first.  That way if you smudge you can wipe it off your skin easily instead of making a mess!

If you are tentative about doing the full on glamour approach start with applying your lips first and then the eyes.  It will keep you from going too dark.

DONT BE AFRAID OF FOUNDATION. You need coverage with a smokey eye.  I am not a foundation fan but if you are going for it, follow it from start to finish.  This is about effect here. 

Bring q-tips with you for emergency clean up.  If you use your fingers to wipe you risk smearing black which could end up on your dress, on your date etc.  I have done that!  Just know that this look is a bit more maintenance, Accept it.  You will look amazing and fabulous know how to keep it that way.  YOur eyes get hot as does your face…know how to deal with it. Focus on how good you look

Keep a gloss in and a kabuki brush in your bag. You wont need more powder….Just use a buff brush to reset the powder. Keeps you from looking cakey. Gloss will add moisture to your lips.

Last but not least, BE HAPPY, BE GRATEFUL, KNOW YOU ARE BEAUTIFUL.  It’s not about the makeup.  Knowing you are amazing will put the light in your eyes.  That’s what is what is true, authentic beauty.